Crowded, crazy, loud, iconic, worth it, and fun.
Several years ago Jim and I went to Disney World without kids (Grace was about 6 months old and we left her behind.) It was really fun; we honestly enjoyed it very much.
Now I can't imagine ever going without my kids- how could I possibly enjoy this when I would be constantly thinking of how much they would love it? I would just miss them.
P.S. The new Fantasyland is going to be great. What we saw was awesome.
You must always take the ferry first. Then when you're exhausted you take the monorail. But the ferry first. Always.